“What the hell have I gotten myself into?” I stared out of the dusty back window of the black clunker that had carried me less than a mile from the Turkey-Georgia border to a gas station in the middle of nowhere. The large Turkish man (we’ll call him Berk) who had been at […]
From Turkey to Tbilisi: The Not-Quite-By-The-Book Way Read More »
I cringed when a young, skinny Georgian guy popped into my four-person compartment and set down a plastic bag with a bottle of liquor peeking out the top. I was still mentally exhausted from my Black Sea ferry ordeal and, as a solo female, the thought of sharing this cramped space with three drunk Georgian
A Midnight Train in Georgia Read More »
(Editor’s note: this is a continuation of Crossing the Black Sea (Part 1), the story of my five day Black Sea ferry ride from Ilyichevsk, Ukraine to Batumi, Georgia) My heart sank when I heard the announcement that the Port of Batumi was closed. It was Sunday afternoon, my third day on the Black Sea
137 Hours on a Boat: Crossing the Black Sea (Part 2) Read More »
I arrived at the UkrFerry office promptly at 10:30 a.m. on Thursday morning and asked for Vladlen – the faceless man with whom I had been exchanging emails for the last month about the Black Sea ferry from Ilyichevsk, Ukraine to Batumi, Georgia. In our most recent email exchange, Vladlen informed me that the ferry,
Crossing the Black Sea (Part 1) Read More »
