My first impression of travel in the Caucasus region was a good one, arriving in sunny Batumi, Georgia to a warm welcome from the immigration officers. One night later, I was on an overnight train, sharing a couple of bottles of cognac with three new Georgian friends. It was just a taste of what was […]
Travel in the Caucasus: Comparing Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan Read More »
I spent my first thirty minutes in Baku, Azerbaijan absolutely hating it. As I got off a stuffy bus after the seven hour ride from Sheki, taxi drivers swarmed around me, the only obvious foreigner in sight. I pushed my way past them with several “nyets,” wanting instead to find the main bus
My Love-Hate Relationship with Baku Read More »
Despite the fact that my visit to Azerbaijan coincided with Eurovision 2012 in Baku, my first stop in the country was not the capital city on the Caspian Sea. Rather, I spent my first few days in Azerbaijan staying with families in the village of Lekit and the town of Sheki. What better way
Community Based Tourism in Azerbaijan Read More »
Upon arriving in Baku, Azerbaijan, my first mission was seemingly simple: head to the embassies of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan to apply for my visas to both countries. Easy, right? Not so much. Both embassies are located outside of the center of the city, off the Badamdar Highway. The addresses themselves were weird, with
Chasing Down Visas in Baku Read More »
“Go to Tbilisi and get a second passport. That is the only way they will let you in,” warned my guide in Kars, Turkey. “No way they will let you in,” promised Taveet as I explained my plans to visit Azerbaijan shortly after we met during my volunteer stint in Armenia. “Oooh, if you have
Getting Into Azerbaijan Read More »
