The Ancient Armenian Capital of Ani

Ani, Turkey

Once upon a time, there was a magnificent city on the banks of the Akhuryan River whose splendor and prominence rivaled that of Baghdad, Cairo and Constantinople. On the map since the 5th century, it […]

From Turkey to Tbilisi: The Not-Quite-By-The-Book Way

Near Turkey Georgia border

  “What the hell have I gotten myself into?”   I stared out of the dusty back window of the black clunker that had carried me less than a mile from the Turkey-Georgia border to […]

Comfort in Kars: The Grand Ani Hotel

Grand Ani Hotel, Kars, Turkey

Thunder rumbled above me as I gathered my bags out of the back of the minibus that brought me from Erzurum to Kars. Dropped in the center of the city, I knew my hotel, the […]