The Aral Sea is the sea that almost disappeared. Situated in both Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, the shrinking of the Aral Sea is one of the greatest environmental catastrophes in history. While crossing Kazakhstan, I stopped in Aralskoe More, once a port on the seashore, to take a tour of the area and see for myself what remains. As we drove out cross mostly barren land that once was covered by water, we stopped to check out several rusty, abandoned ships that are collectively referred to as the “ship cemetery.”