Five Favorite Things in Kiev

Kiev and I did not get off to the best start. It was snowing lightly when I arrived on a Saturday in mid-January and then it proceeded to snow every single day for the next […]

A Preview of Odessa

The first thing I noticed as we drove through the outskirts of Odessa was what was missing: snow. After weeks of snow in Kiev, freezing temperatures in western Ukraine and a horrible mix of melting […]

137 Hours on a Boat: Crossing the Black Sea (Part 2)

Black Sea sunrise

(Editor’s note: this is a continuation of Crossing the Black Sea (Part 1), the story of my five day Black Sea ferry ride from Ilyichevsk, Ukraine to Batumi, Georgia) My heart sank when I heard […]

Crossing the Black Sea (Part 1)

I arrived at the UkrFerry office promptly at 10:30 a.m.  on Thursday morning and asked for Vladlen – the faceless man with whom I had been exchanging emails for the last month about the Black […]

Another Homestay Gone Awry

One of the things I was anticipating the most during my travels was the opportunity to do homestays – living with local families, learning about their culture and sharing a little of my own. Unfortunately, […]

Checking Out Western Ukraine

When people think of Ukraine, they tend to think of the capital city with the golden-domed churches: Kiev. While I enjoyed Kiev, I really fell in love with Ukraine during the two weeks I spent […]

The Art of Pysanky (or, How I Learned to Paint an Egg)

Learning the art of traditional Ukrainian egg painting (known as Pysanky) was not on my list of things to do on this trip. But when Oksana from Active Ukraine (who I found through Twitter!) said […]

Making Plans Makes Me Happy

Planning makes me happy. Before I left on this trip, I wrote about the perils of being a planner. I wrote about how I would try to be more spontaneous on this trip. How I […]