The Never Ending Border Crossing: From Uzbekistan to Turkmenistan

Farab border, Turkmenistan

As the taxi pulled away from my Bukhara hotel at 7:15 a.m., I asked how far it was to Uzbekistan-Turkmenistan border at Farab.  To my surprise, he responded 120 kilometers – much further than I […]

Why Traveling Through Central Asia is Like Running a Marathon

Karakum Desert, Turkmenistan

The last time I ran the Chicago Marathon, I passed the halfway point and angrily ripped off my timing band and turned off my Garmin watch. I slowed to a fast walk, my knees wobbling […]

Previewing Turkmenistan (and why I’m going offline for 10 days)

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

By the time you read this, I will be in Turkmenistan, a country sometimes called the “North Korea of Central Asia.” Indeed, it has been ranked third to last in terms of freedom of the […]