Travel in the Caucasus: Comparing Georgia, Armenia & Azerbaijan

Batumi, Georgia

My first impression of travel in the Caucasus region was a good one, arriving in sunny Batumi, Georgia to a warm welcome from the immigration officers. One night later, I was on an overnight train, […]

My Love-Hate Relationship with Baku

  I spent my first thirty minutes in Baku, Azerbaijan absolutely hating it.   As I got off a stuffy bus after the seven hour ride from Sheki, taxi drivers swarmed around me, the only […]

Community Based Tourism in Azerbaijan

Lekit, Azerbaijan

Despite the fact that my visit to Azerbaijan coincided with Eurovision 2012 in Baku, my first stop in the country was not the capital city on the Caspian Sea. Rather, I spent my first few […]

Chasing Down Visas in Baku

Upon arriving in Baku, Azerbaijan, my first mission was seemingly simple: head to the embassies of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan to apply for my visas to both countries. Easy, right?   Not so much.   Both […]

Getting Into Azerbaijan

Baku, Azerbaijan

“Go to Tbilisi and get a second passport. That is the only way they will let you in,” warned my guide in Kars, Turkey. “No way they will let you in,” promised Taveet as I […]