It was like déjà vu all over again. I arrived in Riga, Latvia in mid-September – after three months of travel in Central Asia, visiting some of the most remote places on my itinerary and experiencing some of the most basic conditions. I longed for a taste of the West – literally and figuratively. I felt very much the same way I did ten months earlier, when I stepped foot in Riga for the first time. Last December, I had just...
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